I've had both DHL and UPS send bills after. And I've sometimes had to pay on the spot. Totally confusing, but not worth worrying about.

Favorites are Next and Marks and Spencer's and recently Macy's - the recently started having free international shipping deals. They do their international shipping with Fiffy One and now let you pay customs in advance or wait it out and see what DHL charges you on delivery. I've ordered a few times and paid around $50 on a $350 order. That's still way cheaper than what I can buy here.
Companys is pretty good, too though the sizing of their collections is a bit eratic

An nice shop for great green products is www.rrrevolve.ch
always nice new stuff. also good for presents.

Www.boden.co.uk they remove to VAT at the checkout and then it's CHF25 customs cost plus the duty. Works out cheap if you order quite a lot of stuff. There is also a 3 month return policy.

I find the selection of greeting cards not very good and expensive here so usually order my cards from here. http://www.orchardcards.co.uk/ They remove the VAT if you email them after you have placed your order. There is a delivery charge but if you order enough cards at once the VAT return and UK prices make this a good deal.