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Highly recommend the district of Albaycin.....opposite to Alhambra. Narrow streets, old houses and you can indulge in the great tradition and pleasure of "ir de tape y tapas" and discover some flamenco shows (not the ones for tourists). To discover a city it requires a little bit more effort and curiosity to get off the beaten paths.
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We really would not have missed the Alhambra for anything- but then we went off peak- I'd hate to think what itw would be like late July and August. There is a Parador (state owned hôtel) in the grounds, but it gets booked up months in advance- there is another hôtel next door, which looked very nice too.
Grenada can be a bit overwhelming is you are not street wise- groups of rough looking new age travellers with lots of lose dogs, piercings, dreads, etc- Don't bother me, but it may bother some.
The Albaycin is the area they live in- there is a hill full of underground ancient dwellings- which was always traditionally the romany gipsy area.
If you are interested in its history, and what it was like under Franco- a good book to read is Victoria Hislop's (wife of Ian of Private Eye fame) 'The return'- in which she describes how gipsies were persecuted under Franco. and how their dance, the Flamenco, was forbidden too. Really worth a read before you go.
The Alhambra, Cordoba and Seville changed the life of OH's family forever, as his grand-dad fell in love with Islamic heart, and then with Islam- becoming the first European to become an officilal Hadji in the 19C. Malaga was much much nicer than we expected it to be- a very pleasant surprise, and the Picasso Museum was great too. We flew to Madrid, used trains and buses and flew back from Malaga.