I'd like to get some input about the strategies to use for an anxious dog.

I've spent a good while over the last few days reading threads here in the forum (some really excellent posts, thank you), looking at various trading websites (dr Sophia Yin, calming signals etc) and I think that my dog has developed fear aggression.

He has always been a cautious dog, very attached to me particularly (an Appenzeller x) a touch territorial (barks at the door and the gate). some of this is his race I'm sure, some his character. I took him form the tierheim (where he was born) at 12 weeks, went to puppy classes, walked with friends dogs, did the SKN and go once a week to dog class (had a break for the summer holiday). He has Some good doggy mates who he gets along fine with.

He has always been cautious with new dogs, hangs back a bit, a little afraid and he's not too keen on the neighborhood dogs (which I assumed was a territorial thing too), but we've not had too many problems until recently.

He has been chased, though not bitten, several times by other off leash dogs (the first time at 6 months). If he has been on the leash I have dropped the leash so he can run (the dog trainer advised this). I don't know if the other dogs sense his fear and think they can have some fun, or whether they just want to play. Sometimes the owners are mortified, sometimes they couldn't care less.

Just recently thing have deteriorated, for several reasons I think:
At the beginningof summer a neighbour bought his big black dog into the house when my house when Sam was in the garden. When Sam came in a saw the dog, (which he doesn't particularly like in any case) he went ballistic - never seen him like it before,very aggressive but his stance was also defensive (shoulders down, bum up, rather than lunging forward)
Later we went on vacation and he spent two weeks back at the tierheim - no reported problems (I had done a few trial stays before hand and it is where he came from). However he probably needs to feel a bit more reassured about his place in the family so I'm getting everyone to pay him a bit more attention.
We've reorganized our house after building works
He has twice got chased by (big black) dogs in the last ten days.

The really bad thing is that he has been very aggresive to a couple of our neighbours dogs, not bitten them but been really very rude and nasty.


On walks he is highly anxious - very alert, constantly scanning, tail at half mast instead of curled up over his back. Refuses to go down some paths without me running backwards and shouting encouragement.
Following advice in one of Melloncollie's posts I have tried to avoid crossing other dogs paths but where it's unavoidable I've taken Sam to one side and tried to distract him or walked round the other dog in a wide arc. It should be clear to any other owners that he's anxious and I say to them that he is scared. People seem to walk straight on then with a reassuring few words. This morning a couple of dogs continued towards Sam, one was very bouncy and play bowing and Sam reacted quiet well to him, cautious but no aggressive. The other one came trotting over quite strongly and Sam did a warning snap.
Getting him to focus on me so I can distract him with treats is impossible, so I think I'll try a head collar like Sophie Yin in her demo videos, so he has to look at me. I think I need better quality treats too.
I'm also refocusing on some basic traininng that he's forgotten over the holidays (sitting to say please, not leaping up at everyone to say hello etc) as I think this will reassure him.

I found the threads in this forum really useful but has anyone any other suggestions or tips about what I can do? I really want to get this sorted out as I can see how anxious Sam is and it must be exhausting of him.

sorry, this has turned into a bit of a novel!

I'm sorry to hear that Sam has developed problems - it's a worrying time, for both you and Sam. Sounds like you are on the right track, though. Working with FA is a long slow journey, sometimes one step forward, two steps backwards - don't lose heart - with time, commitment, and patience it will get better.

And in the meantime, don't forget to pat yourself on the back once in a while, for being such a good dog owner.

As always, a disclaimer:

I am not a behaviorist, and have not seen your dog's actions. In order to truly understand and effectively treat a problem one must see the behavior in real life. Based on what you have written I can only offer some suggestions where my experiences correlate with yours. But please take this as background information only, and consider it in light of what you see with Sam.

This is especially true of aggression issues. FA cannot be diagnosed or treated over 'tinterweb. It is always best to work with a qualified professional, real time, in real life.

That said, the first thing that jumps out at me from your post:

Yes, it should be crystal clear that you don't want contact - but never underestimate the sheer cluelessness of other dog owners.

To be fair, a dog owner who has never experienced the heartache of FA probably doesn't understand why you do not want your dogs to meet - some people are surprisingly unimaginative, thinking all dogs are exactly like theirs.

It's up to us to protect our dogs from such well-meaning but ultimately harmful folks.

I take the defensive position; when I see that my dog is uncomfortable, in addition to getting off the path or out of the way if I need to I will step in front of my dog to block the other owner/dog from approaching. If you encounter an owner who can't or won't control his dog, be blunt - before the dog gets into Sam's 'no fly zone', tell the owner in no uncertain terms to recall his dog and leave you in peace. Don't be afraid of seeming impolite - rather a bit of eye-rolling from the (clueless) other owner than an incident between the dogs.

Then there are the owners who think they know better. These try to force contact even after you ask them to keep away, thinking they can 'cure' your dog. These people are dangerous and deserve no consideration. Be even blunter if you have to - or use my favorite: 'ansteckende Krankheit - bleib fern!' (Contagious illness - keep away!) Even the most obnoxious 'Er macht nichts!' type will usually take a threat of infection seriously.

The key thing is that when in the early phases of rehabilitiation work we need to go to whatever lengths necessary to keep our dogs from 'practicing' the aggression. Every bad experience, every time the adrenaline gets pumping, the behavior gets further ingrained.

And the opposite is also true: by managing Hooligan's interaction with other dogs to ensure that the only contacts she has are enjoyable ones, gradually over time she starts to change the association. Very gradually.

---

Would it be possible to exercise at times when you are unlikely to meet other dogs? Perhaps very early in the morning? Or to go somewhere different where there are fewer problem dogs?

Even all these years on I'm pretty careful where and when we go.

To give my Hooligan the socialization she needed, at the beginning we interacted with other dogs only at the Hundeschule - where I knew and trusted the other owners, where introductions could be carefully managed, where I could set her up for success.

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When your dog is in 'red alert' mode it can be difficult to distract or otherwise control her, that I certainly understand.

One of the things I do is to practice distraction/control when there is no threat, when Hooligan is her normal happy self. Randomly during the walk I'll ask her to step off the path and sit, do a bit of redirection. Then I'll do the same thing at random when a very mild distraction is present, say a bird flying overhead. And I'll do the same again when a mild stress trigger is present - say, a dog hundreds of meters away on the horizon.

By doing this randomly when Hooligan is not on red alert the behavior is more easily learned - repeat it often and it starts to ingrain. Hopefully then when a full-on stress trigger appears (dog coming full-frontal towards us), we have proofed the 'off the path, focus on me' enough so that she is more controllable despite her level of stress.

The way I see it, every walk is a rehab session.

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You mention the behavior to the neighbor's dogs. Are you on friendly terms with the neighbors so that you could enlist their help?

This is probably too much for now, but later once Sam's ability to be distracted from a trigger improves, I wonder if some parallel walking with the neighbor's dogs - done with your trainer - might be of help. The reason I'm thinking about trying to work together is that the dogs have to live in close proximity - working on that relationship will ease tensions at home. But this would only be possible if the neighbor were sympathetic and willing to help. Something to think about.

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It sounds like he is likely telling you that he is unable to handle the situation, it's too much, too fast. For now, it is probably best not to force him. When he is in this mode, skip the walk - do something else, something he enjoys, something that builds confidence and strengthens your bond together.

When Hooligan gets herself all tied up in emotional knots she behaves just as you describe. She is too far over the threshold to learn, or even to cope. So instead of a walk where her anxiety is reinforced, we exercise in the garden. A bit of garden agility, garden flyball, garden Triebball, some searching games - any of the things she enjoys. A good mental work-out channels that hyper-alertness to a specific goal - and once the goal is reached (a successful search, Triebball goal, etc.) she starts to calm down.

I have to also be very careful that I don't convey any anxiety to Hooligan. It can be quite a Teufelskreis: your dog is anxious and in hyper alert mode. Knowing the potential for conflict, you become hyper alert yourself, looking for triggers. Your dog senses your anxiousness, and ups his vigilance... and it all spirals.

So while I must anticipate potential triggers as we walk, I have to control my body language so that all Hooligan gets from me is calm. 'T'aint easy, that's for sure. I've learned to modulate my breathing, and am careful to keep relaxed or neutral body posture - and I am careful to avoid inadvertently letting stress creep into my voice. In a stressful situation, singing often helps.

---

Have you seen this post?

My poor stressed Bella...

Lately I've been doing a lot of BAT (Behavioral Adjustment Therapy) work, and am becoming quite a fan of this approach. Wish I had known about it 5 years ago. We've had something of a quantum leap in good behavior since getting serious about BAT. You might want to check out the BAT links, see if you think this approach might work with Sam.

I'd also probably try doing a bit of TTouch with Sam (same thread) as a general relaxing techinique. Not a cure-all, but anything that helps bring stress levels down is a good thing. And TTouch is very good for strengthing the owner-dog bond, which in turn helps when you need him to focus on you.
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Re: the headcollar.

Does Sam have any head or neck issues, either physical or emotional? If so, I might be careful about this - and certainly if you decide to use one, introduce it slowly, using positive reinforcement to build acceptance. If he is resistant to the collar, the added stress could set him backwards.

I'd want to make sure that the head collar isn't forcing him to focus on you, as that might escalate his stress - the collar should be a gentle reminder only. Ultimately you want his focus to be freely given. So if you use the collar, keep working on building distraction/focus/reward, with the idea that the collar is a temporary aid.

If Sam doesn't have neck/head sensitivity, and if he accepts the head collar, then certainly worth a try.

This is something to discuss with your trainer.

I've never felt the need for a head collar, but I do use a shoulder harness rather than a lead attached to a traditional neck collar. I do this not for control reasons, but rather because I worry about neck injuries. The harness puts the pressure point across the center of the back, and I think better distributes force. The end result, though, is that Hooligan is very easy to control.

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Speaking of maintaining focus - are you using an ultra high value reward to distract Sam, something that only comes out in such situations? I've found that I need to have different levels of rewards for different situations - normal kibble for everyday training, yummy liver paste for special behavior successes, and then the big guns - dried ostrich sticks when working on changing a 'red alert' association.

A lesser value reward wouldn't get Hooligan out of the red zone - but the special dried ostrich sticks, which appear very infrequently, certainly get her attention.

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Are you at all concerned about biting - even remotely? If so, use a muzzle. Now, most owners recoil at the idea, but honestly for many dogs a muzzle actually relaxes them. It's as if the muzzle takes away the need to make a decision. I saw this with my vet-phobic collie. I muzzled him during exams - and when I put the muzzle on you could literally feel the tension drain away.

Properly introduced, properly fitted and properly used, a muzzle does not restrict a dog's enjoyment of his walk - and allows him the freedom to play safely.

Now, the only muzzle that should ever be used is a basket type - never use cloth ones. The cloth ones do not allow a dog to pant - dogs quickly overheat while wearing them and can die.

And of course a muzzle needs to be introduced slowly, using positive reinforcement. Start by putting the muzzle on the floor, with a bit of tuna parfait or similar on the rim. Let the dog sniff, lick the paste. Repeat, repeat. Next time, put the paste farther in, let the dog explore, lick the paste. Repeat, repeat. Keep putting the paste farther and farther in, until the dog is willingly putting his entire face into the muzzle. This should be done gradually.

Then put the muzzle loosely on the dog - just sort of hanging on the nose, no straps. Feed a bit of paste through the basket. Repeat, repeat. Then go further, positioning the muzzle on the nose as it should be worn but unstrapped, reward, repeat. Keep it up until the dog accepts the muzzle placed on and strapped in.

At any resistence, go back to the last 'accepted' step.

When your dog is muzzled, you are likely to be more relaxed as well, knowing he can't bite - and will convey that relaxed attitued to him.

Yes, this is an extreme measure - but if you have any concerns about biting better safe than sorry. A muzzle needn't be for ever - only to help ease the tension during rehab, so that you are your dog are in the best frame of mind to work together.

Bit if Sam has good (tested) bite inhibition, then a muzzle is probably OTT.
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OK, my novel is starting to take on War and Peace proportions... but know that you are not alone, know that this WILL get better. It takes time, lots of time. Celebrate the small victories you and Sam achieve along the way.

And give your boy a big cuddle from me.


ETA:

I have two new 'favorite' training resources:

'Train Your Dog Like A Pro', by Jean Donaldson. She is most known for her books on the science of behavior theory (Culture Clash), but this is a hands-on practical training manual. While general, there is a good bit about FA, and her explanations of counter conditioning and exercise to proof it are very good. There is also a DVD included, with good demonstrations of her techniques. So far, this is perhaps one of the best all around training book I've found. (For me and my ASBO hounds, that is.)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Train-Your-D...5205661&sr=8-1

And - Martin Rütter.

He is best known for his programs on German TV, but in addition to being hugely entertaining he is a sound and knowledgeable behaviorist. (Unlike some other TV entertainers masquerading as dog experts...) I love his DVDs, as there are times when I really need to laugh, or else I'll start wallowing in despair. He touches all sorts of behavior problems, uses practical real-life techniques, 100% positive reinforcement. Well worth watching.

And a great way to polish one's German. Or at least Hundisch.

http://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_...+r%2Cdvd%2C251

Eine Couch für alle Felle (1 and 2) are a good introduction - but all his DVDs are good.

Are you fearful of other dogs?

Is your dog picking up on you apprehension perhaps???

Just a thought, as it's something I have thought when I observe other owners behaviours in relation to my dog, who seem to stereotype him for being a bullie breed. It's crazy cause I would wager 99.9 times out of 100, my dog would never bite, growl, snap or get aggressive to another dog. He is clueless to what aggression is almost, only seen in tug of war

I find many dogs on walks are socially awkward and wonder if this is a result of inappropriate training. They only want to be with their master rather than play with other dogs and get defensive.

I am no expert and meloncollie will for sure have many useful solutions.

Maybe slow introduction to other dogs with plenty of treats and encouragement, and of course with extremely passive dogs to build his confidence up. May be a slow process, but worth trying perhaps for both your sakes.

Sorry to hear what you're going through. I've also got a very fearful/careful dog, but have not yet experienced any aggression in her.

I have not used him personally, but often follow his posts on a yahoo group site:

http://www.auf-den-hund-gekommen.net/-/About_Me.html

His name is Buzz and he's in Basel, so maybe he could help or have some advice.

Good luck!

I am not going to write an excerpt from the Iliad, but what I will tell you is that ALL dogs, big small, fat, thin, lazy, energetic, ugly, cute, hair, fur, breed, need exercise. Preferably three hours a day and your dog will calm down nicely.

Many people gasp at this, but a dog is not unlike any other living thing, it needs to move.

Start taking your dog on looooooooooooooooooooong walks at least twice a day and all should be fine. By definition, a long walk is not 30 minutes btw.

Not to mention... proper dog training is also very important.

Wow - he sounds excellent!

His philosophy is exactly what is needed to work with fear related behaviors.


Slightly OT - Did you see on the 'seminars' link on his website that Emily Larlham is coming to Switzerland in November? Her 'kikopup' videos on youtube are a fantastic resource.

Thanks for the great replies - I knew I'd get a lot of sense here!

Jordan, I'm not afraid of other dogs but Sam may well pick up on my anxiety surrounding possible negative encounters. I could quite easily find quieter times to walk Sam, or go a bit more of the beaten track but I had thought that Sam should have some encounters with other dogs or he'll lose any of his sociability he had. As MC suggests, I can limit his encounters with other dogs to either his friends or the dog class I go to. I'd really like him to do some agility as I think he'd enjoy it a lot but that may be too much at the moment. I tend to walk outside the most popular dog walking times because I'm a bit lazy in the mornings, so we don't see too many other dogs and I probably coud easily avoid them (this morning I saw the dog that makes Sam go nuts so just turned round and walked back from whence I came).

I'll practise the distraction techniques in a low stimulus environment - I have been using walks to reinforce recall just recently, and I'll be cautious with a head collar if I get one - he has no head or neck problems. I had thought of a muzzle actually, although he hasn't actually bitten a dog yet, just a lot of snarling a barking. I think I'd find it re-assuring let alone Sam.
I did read the other thread, and an earlier on where a dog alphas a similar problem, which is what made me realize that it was probably anxiety aggression with Sam.
I do use graduated treat, Camembert being the favorite 'I'll do anything' treat. The really stinky stuff from the pet shop is also good - you know, revolting bits of dried offal and we're using a combination of cheese and beef tripe to get him to associate kitten with nice times and so far it seems to be working.
There are 5 neighbourhood dogs that he regularly encounters. One he goes mental at where ever we are, but we rarely see them - I have no idea why and we don't really know them.
one he seems to really like and he'll woof like crazy as the dog walks past but if he's let out he is friendly to this dog and they are fine together. This particular dog looks quite like Sam's best friend so I think that helps.
All the rest he will bark at when they walk past the front fence but if we encounter them out on a walk then they have been perfectly civil to each other and we have gone for a walk with a couple of them. He is most affected by a Bernese sennenhund, who is the loveliest softest dog. He seems to swing between loving and hating this dog. Fortunately the owner is really nice, because Sam chased her away from our gate the other day when we were chatting - I was mortified.

I try to keep him away from the front and on a long lead in the garden with me if I'm doing the gardening. But I have three kids and lots of doors to the outside so he often gets out to go running woofing to the gate.

T.Sue, thanks for that link. I had a look at his page and his videos and I'm persuaded to perhaps give him a call. I like that fact that it's all positive reinforcement and behavioral modification, no punishment.

Sashimiso, quite apart from being a little bit patronizing, did you actually read my post? I do mention walks and dog class so you can safety assume that I am doing all you suggest. Interestingly , my dog teacher says that over long walks are not good for young dogs as it's just overstimulation, and Sam is not yet a year old.

This is not true. You sound like my neighbour. Such exercise could kill some dogs, particularly in this heat.

Different breeds have different needs.

A couple of thoughts:

Agility:

I love agility, and Hooligan is an agility junkie. She rocks the course in Familienhund... so I gave the real thing a try.

Beginners agility was great - low key, only three other dogs. But once we moved up to intermediate the proverbial hit the fan. Hooligan is fear-reactive. Add in a large group of strange dogs, an extreme adrenaline-fueled atmosphere, constand activity, noise - she was over her threshold within minutes. And it didn't help that the steward was a sportsman, not a trainer or behaviorist, and kept trying to push her because she was a 'natural'. Seriously bad environment for Hooligan. Despite loving the activity, she cannot handle the group dynamics when fun turns into sport.

Soooo... I stopped serious agility and turned to Control Unleashed, a program developed by Leslie Mc Dermot, which tries to help dogs like Hooligan gain self-control in exciting situations:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Control-Unle...5220155&sr=1-1

Now, we never made it back into agility as a sport - ultimately I decided that I needed to keep Hooligan more low key than possible in serious agility - but we do a bit of fun here and there, especially in our Familienhund class. The exercises in CU can be applied to real life situations with an over-stimulated, FA or Fear-reactive dog.

You might want to read up on this before trying agility with Sam. And if you do pursue it (it's great fun when the atmosphere is right), look for a club where the steward is indeed a trainer or behaviorist as well as a sportsman.

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And re: charging the fence.

Sometimes it's easier to modify the environment in the short run. This buys you the time needed to work on a behavior you want to change.

Would it be possible to add a some kind of sight line obstruction, like plants or a solid fence, so that Sam is less likely to see something exciting (like the dogs passing by)? Less stimulation, less reason to charge the fence. Or, if that isn't possible perhaps a second temporary fence - the green wire DIY kind for instance - that would at least create more of a barrier between Sam and passers-by, thus reducing the excitement?

I've done this - I have the normal 1.2m fence (max height allowed), along which I have planted a hedge and trellises of Brombeeren. In front of that there is a second fence. Serves three purposes - Hooligan's sight lines are blocked, but should she ever take it into her head to try to jump the second fence prevents that - and I have a dog-free zone to grow my berries.

My life became much easier once I put in the plantings and second fence, as I can relax while working in the garden, not constantly checking on what Hooligan is up to.

ETA:

The thing that really turned the course for us was having one-to-one sessions with our trainer, where she simply accompanied Hooligan and I on our walks. The ultimate in 'real life' training . Having a second set of eyes helped me to better assess how Hooligan was feeling when stimuli appeared, helped me to better understand what her triggers were, helped me to make better decisions when confronted with a trigger, gave me a better sense of timing, and helped me read not only Hooligan's but also other dogs' body language. Would your trainer be willing to do something like this with you and Sam?

Again, wishing you and Sam all the best.

You know I have thought about the fence - it's a standard metal wire fence, very secure but see through. I did plant up some beach sapling, but all of them but on failed to come out of dormancy (tip - don't buy trees on special offer from Landi!). I also want to plant some ivy to cover it. The major problem is finding time to do this as well as the other gazillion things I have to do. I could
though get just a reed screen. A second bit of fence is needed to stop Sam running into a bit I just can't get too - my husbands meant to be doing that at some point.

I'm sure the dog trainer would come and do a session with us but my impression is that she's quite a generalist and I might need someone who has a specific interest in 'problem' dogs. I'll ask her though at our next class.

Sounds like a good idea to block Sam's view through the fence, even if only as a temporary measure. If Sam as fewer opportunites to 'practice' the behavior you will have an easier time training him out of it.

I've learned through long experience and many mistakes that anything I do to make the environment easier on me in the short term helps me more train my dogs more effectively in the long run.

Don't hesitate to look for professional help - either your trainer, a professional behaviorist, or both. I've done that - I work primarily with our trainer, but have also attended seminars and workshops with other behaviorists whose work I admire. I think it's good to hear different ideas, to look at a problem from varying viewpoints.

A thought occured to me:

Has Sam had a full health check-up, including a blood screen? The reason I ask is that thyroid deficiencies can cause aggressive behavior in some dogs. If Sam's behavior is a recent change, you might discuss this with your vet.

Again, all the best.

Brilliant! Really like his work.

This is how I encourage Bella. For example, I have been using bottles to try and distract her from the FEAR of fences. It seems to be having a positive affect so far. May try some of the games on the walk with her as I just play in the garden.

Very good point, DHD - a reward doesn't need to be food, if the dog is toy or play oriented these too are very effective rewards. Introducing a game would be a good idea on walks, as not only is this a distractor, but you are also teaching a your dog what to do (as opposed to only what not to do) and channeling her emotions/energy into something positive.

Looking further into the Auf dem Hund gekommen' website, I am even more impressed. Mr Cecil really knows his stuff! I love the video clips and articles linked - lots of excellent material.

(Maybe a road trip to Basel is in my future... )

One of the things he mentions doing with his own dogs is K9freestyle/dog dancing, and he teaches some of the basics (Trick Dog). Again, something you might look into , Terramundi. This is far more than a parlor amusement - it's a very good way to work on focus and bonding, a great mental workout - and the work is low key so perfect for an FA/FR dog.

When I finally realized that sport Agility wasn't right for Hooligan, we switched to Team Training, which is a bit of HTM/Freestyle/Dog Dancing. Our trainer suggested this as an alternative because we could keep her well below threshold while giving her the mental stimulation she needed. And it really has helped her to focus on me. Sometimes if I sense that she is getting jittery I ask for a few turns, weaves or a short routine as we are walking along. Distracts her, returns her focus to me - and she is doing something positive and fun, relieving tension.

Lots of outstanding ideas and material on Mr Cecil's website.

Had to post this. This is my girl who has just had a game with her bottle next to a fence.

She's tired but much less nervous.

Yes, I read it clearly and I am not sure if you are referring to me as being patronizing or you are apologizing for what you were about to say as patronizing.

Walking the dogs has many faces depending on the person. If you took offense to that comment, well, I won't apologize because you were not clear about how far, how long, how much you walk your dog. I see people all the time walking their dogs around the block and think they have completed the task necessary to say they walked the dog.

As for your dog teacher... if he told you that dogs who lift their left leg to pee are more likely to get cancer and die younger, would you believe that too?

That is right... I said take the dog out in the heat, run it until it is about to drop, and then hope it doesn't.

You should read Cesar Milan's book - Cesar's Way about caring for dogs, and exercise and why it is important for solid, repeated exercise for dogs.

Of course, you clearly know more than me, you are probably a veterinarian, have spent years researching dog caring, and all of that, so I am only going by what a dog expert says who has 30+ years experience, has taken the most hard to deal with dogs and got them in line, takes a pack of 20-30 dogs on a run in the desert mountains every day without leashes and never has a problem (noting many are "problem dogs") and is highly regarded, respected, and thought of as a leader on the subject of dogs around the world, including by experts.

Edit: Ironically, you sound like my neighbor. "Get the dog out of the elements. He likes to lay here on the couch and watch TV with me all day long. Why is my dog so fat and lazy? Also, how come my dog won't sleep at night?" and on and on

Sashimo, in cases of fear-related anxiety, reactivity, or aggression the advise from Terramundi's trainer to limit walks during this phase of rehab is absolutely correct.

We are not talking about 'normal' canine behavior here - we are talking about a dog caught in a fear-related behavior cycle.

In the short term avoiding over-stimulation is key, because at this point in time the dog does not have the coping skills needed to handle the things that frighten him. Sensory overload can send the dog over his threshold, making it impossible to learn in such situations. The dog goes into unthinking reaction mode, often further ingraining the behavior that one needs to train out. Or a worst-case - a dog overloaded absolutely can't cope, and shuts down. A shut down dog is a NOT showing calm submission - a shut down dog is ticking time bomb.

With dogs caught in this cycle, limiting exposure to stimuli keeps them under the threshold, at a point where they can learn. Walks for a dog whose behavior is driven by fear are pure over-stimulation - and while the behavior is being addressed, often owners are advised to keep the walks short, in an environment that the owner can control to ensure a positive experience. That does not mean that the dog turns into a couch potato, not at all - an owner needs to give the dog alternative exercise, both mental and physical - but always under the threshold.

A dog who is over-exercised is pumped full of adrenaline already - now add in the adrenaline rush brought on by fear... and you have a situation that could spiral out of control.

As you might guess by my other posts, I do not agree with CM in most cases. He is not a behaviorist, he has no scientific training - and he often mis-reads a dogs' body language, giving what most behaviorists would say is wrong advice to owners, especially in cases driven by fear.

His reliance on of the concept of dominance is flawed. This is especially true of dogs whose behavior springs from fear - use of force in such cases is dangerous. It is unfortunate that 'dominance' has captured the public's imagination - such is the power of a catchy sound-bite - but he tends to mis-apply the concept.

Yes, he himself has a gift with animals - and yes, that he has gotten many dog owners off the sofa and out exercising is a good thing. But without an understanding of solid canine behavioral science he has done a disservice to many dogs and their owners.

He is very charasmatic, no doubt. And very entertaining. But I would ask you to do this: turn the sound off. Now watch the video - and look carefully at the dog's body language. You will see a rather different picture to what the narration describes.

Fortunately he has started to take note of the criticism from trained behaviorists and animal welfare groups, and is using less force and punishment - but IMHO he still has a long way to go.

Please read my post 12 on this thread - I've given many links discussing the 'dominance' controversy:

What is the best way to train a dog?

Better yet - browse the excellent 'Auf dem Hunde gekommen' website. An approach like the one advocated there is the best way to work with a fearful, fear-reactive, or fear-aggressive dog.

Actually, it's the best approach to work with any dog.

Dona nobis pacem.

.

Congrats, DHD!

Here's to your (and Bella's) continued success.

Yep, look at how fat my dog is

My neighbour told me he should be out having exercise all day, bit like you. She said her mum had dogs, she knows what dogs need.

I told her to do some research on French Bulldogs.

Maybe you should too.

I am not saying I know more than you, but looking at your one glove fits all attitude, I think I do.

Cesar is great, but he has a general attitude to dog care and training. As I said, not all dogs are the same. My dog requires 2x 30minute walks, 3 max a day, particularly in this heat.

He often gets more than that as he goes to dog sitter, but he will seek out the shade and sleep a lot of the time.

Not all dogs are greyhounds, whippets or collies

Demonstrating your knack of, the TV told me something and I know more than anyone else who has real life experience. You really should get out this habit of reading "expert" and "30 years" as the be all and end all of all topics. Sure, listening to experienced people can help guide you sometimes, but its better to do your own research and encounter your own experience, especially when particulars are involved and not looking for a generalisation.

My original response to the posting was merely in regards to exercise. I wasn't nor would I imply that I know how behavioral issues with dogs (or humans for that matter) are fixed. I do not disagree if there are specific problems that they need to be address.

As for the dog having a severe fear problem, yes, I would understand the need to take baby steps.

My one dog, while out hiking in the US got into a wasp (yellow-jacket) nest. Everyone ran except me who went in to get him. I got stung a couple of dozen times, he got stung equally as much. Now, even if the slightest bump on his arse happens, he go crazy, yelps, and takes off running, without regard to anything. My point, I understand that some issues are much more severe, and I wasn't trivializing this one.

With that said... I don't agree with your feelings towards CM, but, that is just a matter of opinion and I do not believe he has seen a downward turn from support, other than of course, the divorce with his wife.

I should mention, I read your other post. I just think it is a matter of different perspective and opinion. I also am not sure how much you have fully understood how he trains dogs based on some of your comments, but, I am just dropping out of the subject and I wish the dog the very best.