Calling EF'ers that have more DIY skill than I do (so everyone basically)...

The upper hinge (türband) of my bedroom door does no longer fit snugly into the hole, and the weight of the door pulls it out of the wall... damn thing nearly flattened me!

Do you guys know what typically would be a suggested fix here?

Secondly, would any general woodworker be able to fix this? When we renovated, we had one who installed cupboards and put up curtain racks, etc. My next step is to call him, but I don't want to waste each others time (and money).

I have attached a pic.

Many thanks!

Attached Images

 

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krlock3.

a) Oversized and/or longer hinge.

b) Drill out hole and glue in dowel, and make new hole for hinge.

Tom

If that pin has a regular woodscrew thread where it goes into the doorframe then:

Hold the pin so that it's in it's original position.
Carefully mark double crosshairs on the doorframe so you know where the hole should be.
Remove the doorpin.
Find a piece of hardwood dowel/rod about 15mm larger in diameter than the thread on the door pin, and a drill bit of the same size.
Drill the doorframe, at least as deep as the thread on the pin.
Using a saw, make some helical cuts in the outside diameter of the dowel (to give some space for the glue).
Trim the end of the dowel to match the angle on the end of the drill bit.
Cut your dowel 1cm longer than it needs to be.
Blow any dust out of the hole.
Coat the hole and the dowel with glue (I prefer PU glues).
Pound the dowel into the hole until it's only sticking out by 1cm.
Wait for the glue to dry.
Trim the protruding bit of dowel flush.
Mark the center of where the pilot hole needs to be, using the lines you made at the start.
Pilot drill the dowel with the appropriate sized drill for the hingepin (i.e. just under the minor dia. of the threads).
Sand, fill, paint the repaired area.
Thread the pin back in.
Hang the door.
Have a beer.

(If the doorframe has a metal threaded insert in it then the procedure is roughly the same, but the dowel will be larger diameter.)

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Thanks Tom.

a) So these hinges come in many diameters? I could just go to a DIY place and get one a millimeter wider? If so, that would be the easiest solution!

b) makes sense I suppose. I think I would get the handyman to do that though, to avoid a FUBAR.

Thanks... as that is not fully understandable to me, I think again that would be a job for a woodworker! The hinge has no thread, it is about 5cm long, it has two small hollows going through it.

Mine is just the pedantic version of what Tom wrote.

I'm not sure what you mean by "two small hollows", can you post a picture?

Rather than replacing the hinge, you could try just using a filler/glue with the door attached and open, but the weight of the door taken by jamming some cardboard wedges under it. This should ensure that the hinge is correctly aligned. The frame will have to be solid enough for the glue to grip.

Here is a picture...

Attached Images

IMG_4912.jpg (34.9 KB, 342 views)

Do you mean, put some glue in the hole, and coat the hinge in the picture above, then put it in, and then attach the door with the wedges underneath.

1. If thats right, why attach the door, why not put the hinge in let it set without the door? So that I know it sets in the correct position I suppose?

2. Not sure if I should try this versus the other methods? It does mean that the hinge will have no play, but I don't suppose that matters?

That should be retained by screws.

Are they missing?

Mine are all threaded.

Tom

There are no screws. To be honest, I have no idea how that would work if there were? you would have to drill into it from the side too? Would you have a link to a pic or vid?

Also, when you say yours is threaded, would you kindly have a link of an image of that?

I've only seen them threaded into the frame. Older ones with a woodscrew thread straight into the wood, newer ones with a machinescrew thread, in a threaded insert in the wood, or a threaded sleeve welded to the inside of the frame if it's a steel frame.

Grubscrew through the door casing? Glued in place when built?

But to me, thread implies what you get on a screw. There is nothing threaded here.

Every door in my house seems to have a different system too! Old house...

Grubscrew might work, but would be trickier to get right. I would not trust myself to do it.

Could stuffing the existing hole with glue, aligning the hinge, and waiting for it to set, as Kiwi might(?) be saying, work out? Certainly it is the solution requiring the least DIY skill, so I could do it myself.

As a very basic and primitive, yet simple solution:
If the existing hole hasn't been too destroyed, pass a piece of any cotton rag through that hole at the end of the hinge, then soak it in strongest glue you could find and ram the thing into the door frame hole. The rag will fill up the space between the hinge and the hole surface, glue will help bind it. I don't see the need for extra woodwork unless your door weighs a tonne. Wait 24 hours, test it, then hang the door /if it fails, 'groan' at me/...

Maybe get a handyman/lady in to fix it rather than make it worse b not really know what to do ?

OP's picture


Modern ones look like these:


from:
https://www.opo.ch/de/einbohrbaender/c/01-03-02

I can imagine only that the door and frame were originally purchased as a matched pair since the hinge has no possibility of any adjustment and it would require far too much precision to use the two what appear to be fixing holes on site.

I will have a similar problem in our wash room where a relatively light door was "fireproofed" when we had new heating system installed. The additional weight of the 18mm sheet attached is stressing the top hinge and frame.

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You could try filling the hole/gluing in the metal piece with a Sika MaxTack Ultra glue. It has a rating of 220kg per 10 cm3.

It is available from Hornbach. You just need a gun to dispense it. The link has different graphics from the product I have so I would ask in the store for the version with the highest load factor (since you do not have a lot of "volume" to work with).

Link: https://www.hornbach.ch/shop/Sika-Ma...artikeldetails

I think it might also be available from Coop Brico and Migros do-it.

Since it requires some time to set up you need to insert the metal piece into the hole (once filled with the product) and make sure that it does not move while the glue is drying and that it is in the correct position/depth. I would use masking tape to keep it in position and leave it for 24 hours.

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I like the sound of this solution.

Here is what my packaging looks like. It is different from the Hornbach link I gave you. From memory I bought mine at Hornbach so they should have it.

https://www.doitgarden.ch/de/p/67604...E&gclsrc=aw.ds