My DIY grooming routine for double-coated long haired dogs:
Please note that I am not a groomer, and my dogs will never look like show dogs. I'm going for practicality and hygiene. I keep it simple. My dogs (rough collies and shelties) have a very thick undercoat and a stiff long top coat. The undercoat needs daily work to keep it from matting - this is where I spend most of my time.
Tools, with examples - these can be found at most Swiss pet stores:
Long toothed undercoat rake http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...4&pcatid=26044
Kong Zoom Groom, or a curry comb: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...92&pcatid=3292
PuppySlicker - soft wire pins that are straight, not bent. https://www.qualipet.ch/shop/hunde/h...upfburste.html
Nylon (not wire) Pin/Bristle Brush combo: http://www.fressnapf.ch/de/doppelbue...-blau-604.html
Grooming scissors. https://www.qualipet.ch/shop/hunde/h...re-l-17cm.html
Things I found did more harm than good:
Furminator/Coat King/MoultMaster shedding type tools that cut the undercoat
I first use the Zoom Groom to loosen up the undercoat. This doesn't really take out any of the undercoat, but it makes it easier to get a brush through it. And the dogs love the 'massage'.
If the undercoat is matted, the coat rake - used very gently - is the next step. The wide teeth will mostly break up the matt. Don't go down to the skin if matted, as this will just pull and cause pain. Rather start at the top of the matt, once that is broken then try a layer deeper.
Once the matts are loosened I then use the puppy/soft slicker. I don't like regular slickers, those with long bent wire pins, as IME these pull too hard on the matted undercoat, causing discomfort. The soft slicker takes more time, but I think is easier on the dog.
If the undercoat is in good shape, it usually is enough to start using the pin brush to go through the undercoat, again going slowly and gently. The pins will pick up any dead undercoat - you will need to clean the brush frequently. The goal is to be able to brush through the entire coat without getting caught on matts.
Once the undercoat is done, use the bristle brush on the top coat.
Pay attention to the ears - this is where most knots form. When the dog scratches behind his ears you can bet you will find knots. If you keep up with knots as they are forming you can usually brush them out. I use the bristle first to loosen the knots, then the pin brush to break them apart. If the knots are quite tight it is often better to cut them out than torture the dog. (Remember, I'm going for practicality, not show coats.)
Also take care around the elbows, another matt-prone area.
And watch the back-end feathers; these will need daily attention. Be aware that the area is sensitive. I usually use just the bristle brush, cutting out any matts rather than trying to break them up. (With collies and shelties there is so much hair that cutting out a knot is not noticeable.) Some owners of long haired dogs prefer to trim the back end feathers for hygiene reasons. I don't, but I do keep an eye on cleanliness.)
The tail is also sensitive, again I just use the bristle brush.
Trim the fur around the feet, watching for growth between the pads.
As you are grooming, watch the skin for any lesions, cysts, warts, etc. If uncertain about any growth you find, ask your vet.
Rough collies and sheltie tend to have dry skin, so bathing is kept to a minimum - about once a year, or when the little darlings roll in something unspeakable.
I don't know about your dog's skin type - but be aware that too frequent bathing can be detrimental. I use a very gentle shampoo for dry skin. Most brands are similar, you can find a range of shampoos choices in all pet stores. I do not use an insecticide type shampoo - these are all too harsh for my guys.
Regular brushing means that I rarely have to bathe the dogs. When I do, I just pop them in the shower. (Oh how I miss the dog-shower I had built in my mud room in my house in the States!)
Nail trimming is always an issue - and one to work on desensitizing if your dog finds it distressful. If your dog's nails are clear it's easy as the quick is visible - just use a nail trimmer, being careful to keep well clear of the quick.
Black nails are more difficult, as you cannot see the quick. I just take off a very little bit once a month.
When you accidentally hit the quick, the bleeding will usually stop soon. If necessary, Blutstillendewatte or styptic powder are handy to stop excessive bleeding. Styptic power is much easier to use, but I have not been able to find it here, so I bring it with me from the States.
If you are uneasy about trimming nails yourself, this is a task that can be left to a groomer or vet. My vet trims the black nails as needed whenever we are there for a consult for other reasons.
One of mine had the quick growing down to the very edge of the nail - this is a condition some senior dogs develop. With him, the vet had to do his nails, cauterizing the quick as he went along.
One more grooming tool: A really good vacuum cleaner and upholstery brush. No matter how carefully you groom your dog you will still find fur tumbleweeds blowing across the room.
There are hundreds of grooming videos on youtube, btw. Bottom line - just do a little every day, try different techniques - pretty soon you will learn what works best for you and your four footed friend.
Rusty is a gorgeous guy - have fun!