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Old 11.06.2015, 08:56
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Re: Clay Bar - and/or detailing products

Does no one use 'Mer', anymore?

Back in the day, it used to be only available from the demonstrator-selling guy, at markets, applying it to a removed, old mini bonnet for the 'n'th hundredth time - and then emptying a can of zippo fuel on the bonnet and igniting it; or sometimes from a little independent High St. auto factor store.

It seems to now have gone mainstream - I picked some up in Halfords, a couple of years back and I think it's on Amazon.de. The familiar blue square bottle is now black.

One of the best clean, polish and shine products I've ever used - removes old hardened, dried birds crap, tar, sap and everything else. Use on all surfaces, except vinyl roofs and probably windscreen - finish can give too much headlamp glare from oncoming vehicles (although I normally do). Also works a bit like T-Cut on light scratches.

Apply neat, with a wet sponge for grubby car and hard to remove stains or regularly add a couple of caps to warm water and hand wash with a sponge. Allow to powder dry and buff off - when used regularly, it's so much better for protecting paintwork, than Turtle Wax and other similar more expensive products.r
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  #22  
Old 11.06.2015, 09:38
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Re: Clay Bar - and/or detailing products

Always used autoglym super resin, but recently bought some Carnauba wax and am very impressed at how easy it is to apply and it gives a great shine.

never used a clay bar but now with a white car I notice the residual dirt much more so may try it.

Anyone recommend anything for glass? I have full black glass roof and it attracts pollen and water marks..
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  #23  
Old 11.06.2015, 09:42
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Re: Clay Bar - and/or detailing products

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Anyone recommend anything for glass? I have full black glass roof and it attracts pollen and water marks..
I recently did the Disco's panoramic roof - and washed it and then just polished it with a SONAX polish.

On the windscreen I use RainX as the final protection.
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Old 11.06.2015, 10:10
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Re: Clay Bar - and/or detailing products

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Don Molina, I did mine last Saturday for 5 hours. Mostly claying. I did use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound then wax but I didn't get the same result that you had. I used a double action polisher stanley fatmax up to 12000rpm but only used the low settings as the foam flew on higher settings. I was quite happy with the result, especially with the clay bar picking up a lot of dirt and the paint feeling as smooth as glass. But it wasn't as perfect as I was hoping it to be.



After the compound it would be much better to polish, since Meguiar's UC is quite fine, but not fine enough. It's designed to dull and level the surface so then you can bring the shine out with a polishing fluid.

Also speed is your friend when levelling, but not so when you're finishing and polishing or sealing.


For glass best results with shallow stiff microfiber pads since it's such a hard surface.
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Old 11.06.2015, 10:17
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Re: Clay Bar - and/or detailing products

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After the compound it would be much better to polish, since Meguiar's UC is quite fine, but not fine enough. It's designed to dull and level the surface so then you can bring the shine out with a polishing fluid.

Also speed is your friend when levelling, but not so when you're finishing and polishing or sealing.


For glass best results with shallow stiff microfiber pads since it's such a hard surface.
Do you not perhaps want to highlight that if you are levelling you should use very light pressure? Having seen the results of someone using an aggressive compound - at high speed - with a lot of pressure - it is worth approaching any sort of correction cautiously
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Old 11.06.2015, 13:11
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Re: Clay Bar - and/or detailing products

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Do you not perhaps want to highlight that if you are levelling you should use very light pressure? Having seen the results of someone using an aggressive compound - at high speed - with a lot of pressure - it is worth approaching any sort of correction cautiously
DA polishers have the clutch that slows down or even stops the spinning when pressure is applied. So from personal experience, I'd say that if you have a Dual-Action/Eccentric/Random Orbiting (different things for the same machine) you're pretty safe to go to town. Of course always go with a test panel first, and see what technique works best for your paint and your equipment & supplies.
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